Danger, danger

I can’t help but feel that PC El Salvador is Peace Corps, light. Apparently, other Peace Corps countries refer to us as Cuerpo de Playa, or Beach Corps. In some ways, that is most definitely true. We have a lot of volunteers in a tiny little country with great roads and an extensive bus system, so we can get to each other in a day’s time. We have the beach, a modern capital, and plenty of places to basically act like an American tourist. Also, every single one of us has electricity, and most of us have cell phone service and access to internet if we want it. Within Beach Corps, I have an even “lighter” situation than most. I live on the Panamerican with easy access to San Vicente and San Salvador, my host family has a nice house and a real toilet, my school loves Peace Corps and is willing to collaborate, and et cetera. On the other hand, I think El Salvador brings to the table something that many other PC countries do not…namely, the threat of violent crimes. El Salvador was determined to have the highest “violent death” rate (read on...) in the whole world. That is, people aren’t just getting murdered, they’re getting murdered in the most violent ways possible. For example, a couple weeks ago a bus driver was burned alive inside of his bus for not paying rent to the gangs. Lovely. Unfortunately, this violence is pretty widespread, and my proximity to the highway and major cities actually makes my site more dangerous. On Wednesday night, my host uncle (and neighbor) and his family were held up at gunpoint in their own home and robbed by 4 masked men. Everything was taken from them, from their car to their clothing.  This, for me, is terrifying. When I am traveling around El Salvador on the buses, or walking around the city, I know that I am in a dangerous area and am on alert. However, I’ve always felt pretty safe here in my site. Now I’m always afraid.  Walking from the main house to my bedroom is heart-quickening adventure every night and every sound (and believe me, there are lots) is a potential assailant. It’s hard to know if I’m overreacting to this or not. What I know is that the police in El Salvador don’t do much, four men got away with a lot pretty easily, and even if those specific men don’t come back, I am very vulnerable where I am. That being said, tomorrow I am heading to San Salvador to mentally recuperate for a few days and see some friends before the holidays. And luckily, my family comes next Friday!